A NEW SEGMENT OF BICYCLES

Bike Werks will always service all bicycles.  There’s nothing more convenient than to have your bike worked on at your home.  Whether you have a 15 year old hybrid, a 20 year old mountain bike, a newer state of the art road bike, or several kids bikes, we’re happy to come to you.

You can’t help but notice that there’s a new segment of bicycles on the road and on the trail.  That segment is electric assist bicycles or simply E-bikes.  It’s easy to see why they’re so popular once you’ve ridden one. 

A FEW THINGS ABOUT E-BIKES

1. They’re heavier than normal bicycles.  With a traditional bike weighing about 25 lbs, e-bikes are more in the 60 lb range.
2. There are a lot of brands.  How do you find one that’s not going to break the bank, while still offering a good value for the dollar.
3. Many are sold on-line.  They have to be assembled and you’re buying something that you don’t get to test ride first
4. There are many power train options with motors in the wheel or motors built into the frame offering different top speeds and different battery ranges

SO THAT MEANS

1. It’s even harder to take your e-bike to a shop for service – a mobile mechanic makes the most sense
2. Buy your e-bike from Bike Werks – the price will be the same as if you go at it alone… but now you won’t have to build it, and you’ll have a professional point of contact for any unexpected issues.
3. We’ll point you in the right direction to match you with a bike that fits your body as well as your budget.  We only represent and recommend well established brands.

BIKE WERKS IS THE ANSWER

I’ve noticed that there’s no shortage of places and ways you can purchase an e-bike, but have also noticed that people who need their e-bike serviced have found the process difficult and frustrating.  Lots of folks selling them, but very few avenues when things go wrong.  Call on Bike Werks to help select the right bike for you.  Call on Bike Werks to build your new bike.  Call on Bike Werks to fix your new e-bike if something’s not right.

BIKE WERKS NOT ONLY SELLS E-BIKES, BUT IS A FACTORY AUTHORIZED SERVICE PROVIDER FOR SEVERAL BRANDS INCLUDING:  RAD POWER, LECTRIC, AVENTON, FLYER, BATCH, BLIX, LEMOND, PEDAL, VITUS, XTRACYCLE AND MORE.

If you want to know more about e-bikes, call Bike Werks before you buy.

The post Ebikes, e-Bikes, Pedal Assist Bikes, Electric Bicycles – Yea, Bike Werks Sells and Services those too. first appeared on Bike Werks.

Nothing can frustrate new riders quite like bicycle gears.  Unfortunately, shifting bike gears isn’t a terribly intuitive thing.  It takes a bit of time and thought to learn how to shift properly and efficiently. 

The good news is once you get a bit of practice, shifting becomes second-nature–something you don’t have to think about at all.  In order to help hasten the learning process, we’ve outlined everything you need to know about shifting–what gears to pick, when to pick them, and how to make a clean shift.

The Parts Of A Drivetrain

First things first. It helps to understand how gears on a bicycle work.

The whole system that propels your bike forward is referred to as your “drivetrain.” This includes your chain, cranks, bottom bracket, derailleur(s), front chainring(s), rear cassette, shifters, and shifter cables.

In this article, we’ll focus on the derailleur(s), front chainrings(s), rear cassette, and shifters.

Unless you have an internally geared hub (not likely, but we’ll discuss it more later), your bike will have a rear derailleur. The rear derailleur moves the chain up and down the rear cassette.

From left to right: A rear cassette and rear derailleur, front chainrings and front derailleur, and a shifter.

The rear cassette is cluster of individual gear cogs (or rings) located on the rear wheel. You may (or may not) also have a front derailleur. If you have more than one chainring up front at the crank, the front derailleur will move the chain between the rings.

Finally, the shifter (or shifters) are located on the handlebar and allow you to manually change gears. When you operate the shifters, they control the movement of the derailleur(s), causing the chain to shift to different gears.

Right Hand Shifting vs. Left Hand Shifting

Many (though not all) bikes will have shifters on both the right and left sides.  The left shifter moves the chain on the front rings and the right shifter moves the chain on the rear rings (cassette).  

More and more modern bicycles only have a single front chain ring which means there will only be a shifter on the right hand side. This makes things a lot simpler.

But, if you do have both a right and left hand shifter, when should you use which?  The left (front) gears should be used to make major gearing changes–for instance, you just made it to a big hill or a big downhill. 

For more gradual changes, you want to use the right (rear) gears.  You should find that you are spending a lot more time shifting on the right (rear) than you are on the left.

A tip for remembering which shifter to use: right=rear.  (This happens to be true for your brake levers too).

Please note, these rules are only true in the United States. If you live elsewhere, your shifters and brakes may very well be reversed.

Understanding Your Shifters

Each brand and type of shifters are a little bit different.  Mountain bikes tend to have trigger shifters, road bikes have shifters that are integrated in the brake levers, and some bikes have grip shifters. 

With trigger shifters, there are two levers. One moves you to an easier gear, the other moves you to a harder gear.

With drop bar shifters, there are paddles or levers on the inside of the brake lever. If you push them sidewise, you’ll activate the derraileur. One will move you to an easier gear, one to a harder gear.

Grip shifters are a little different. You twist one direction (usually away from you) to go to a harder gear, and the other direction to go to an easier gear.

Some shifters will have a display that show which gear you are in, others don’t have a display. If you don’t have a display–don’t despair–you’ll learn in time how to gauge which gear you’re in.

Spend some time in your driveway or in a parking lot practicing and learning how to operate your particular shifters. 

Don’t be afraid–just experiment!

Understanding your Chain Rings and Cassette

In the front of your bike you probably have two or three chain rings.  (Some bikes only have one). 

The “big chain ring” is the hardest gear to pedal in, and is best reserved for flat roads and downhills.  The small ring is best for climbs, and if you have a third, middle ring, this is where you will spend most of your time riding.

In back, you have anywhere from 7 to 12 rings.  All the rear rings together are referred to as a cassette. 

The rear cassette has the opposite logic of the front chain rings in that the smallest ring is the hardest and the biggest is the easiest.  Again, you will spend most of your time somewhere in the middle.  You should climb in one of your biggest rings, and descend in one of your smallest.

Shift One Gear at a Time

One mistake beginners tend to makeis overshifting.  In the beginning, you should focus on shifting one gear at a time and making sure it is a clean shift before shifting again. 

If your chain feels like it is skipping or making a rubbing noise, you probably didn’t make a full, clean shift.  Try shifting a little harder into you can feel it shift cleanly into gear.

Don’t Cross-Chain

Another common mistake is what is referred to as “cross-chaining.”  This is where you are on the big ring in the front and a big ring in the back (or a small ring in the front and a small ring in the back). 

This is a no-no.  It puts a lot of torque on the chain, and can cause it to stretch or to fall off your chain rings.

Here’s a bit of a cheat sheet to remember what gears you should be in when:

• Climbing — little ring up front, bigger ring in back
• Descending — big ring up front, littler ring in back
• Flat roads, gentle uphills and downhillls — middle ring up front (if you have one), and any ring in the back that feels comfortable.  This is where you should be riding most of the time.

Shift While Moving

Your chain needs to be moving in order for it to shift into a different gear.  This means you shouldn’t shift while at a stop or while coasting.  Make sure you’re pedaling at least a little bit while you shift.

The only time this isn’t true is if you are riding a bike with an internally geared hub rather than a rear derailleur and cassette. In this case, you actually want to stop pedaling for a moment while you shift.

This bike has gears inside the hub rather than a traditional rear cassette and derailleur.

Think Ahead

Make it a habit to keep any eye on what is in front of you, and don’t wait until the last minute to make a shift.  If you see a big hill coming, shift into an easier gear at the bottom before you start climbing in earnest.  If there is too much torque on the chain already, you are likely to mis-shift or drop your chain.

Practice, Practice, Practice

Take your bike to the backyard or parking lot or for a few spins around the block.  It’s often easiest to practice when you are all by yourself and allow yourself some time and space to make mistakes and learn.  Don’t wait until you are on a group ride or riding with friends to practice your shifting, as you are more likely to get flustered and frustrated when riding with other people.

It’s also important to remember that with practice you WILL figure it out.  Shifting WILL become easy and feel like second nature.  If it feels hard, that’s okay.  Give yourself time and patience to figure things out.

(article written by https://www.femmecyclist.com/bicycle-gears-101/ and copied to Bike Werks Blog 7/16/23)

The post Shift Your Bike – Ride Farther With Less Effort first appeared on Bike Werks.

Most kids start learning to ride a bike on a two-wheeler with training wheels.  Between the ages of 4 and 8 years, most kids have developed sufficient physical coordination and agility, good balance, and master starting and stopping on a tricycle or training wheels so that they are ready to learn to ride a bicycle.

Ask any adult and no doubt they’ll be able to tell you about their first bike or the adventures they had on two wheels as a youngster.  A bike provides kids freedom, confidence and everlasting memories, not to mention the development of fine motor skills and muscle development, and so choosing the right one is pretty important.  There are no specific rules for buying a particular bike for a child, however, the tips below should point you in the right direction

Selecting the right size bike for a child might seem like a simple equation but there’s a lot more information to consider than age alone. Sizing of the bike is more dependent on height than age, not to mention confidence and ability.

BIKE SIZE                       SUGGESTED CHILD HEIGHT

Balance Bike / 12” wheel ……………………… 2’-10” – 3’-7”

16” wheel …………………………………………….. 3’-3” – 3’-11”

20” wheel kids bike * ……………………….….. 3’-9” – 4’-5”

24” wheel …………………………………………….. 4’-3” – 4’-9”

26” wheel ……………………………………..………4’-9” & taller

Standard BMX bikes have 20” wheels and are ridden by adolescents and adults

It’s important when selecting a bike that you don’t choose a size the child will ‘grow into’. As the size of a bike increases, so does its weight, making it more difficult to maneuver. Greater tire size also adds weight, as do more gears and additions like suspension, kickstands and hand operated lever brakes.  An increase in height raises the center of gravity and makes it harder to balance. As a result, if you choose a bike that is too large, your child may have difficulty riding it and not enjoy the experience. Use the height recommendations as a guide and be mindful that the best way to know if the bike is the right size is to see if the child can comfortably stand over the bike with both feet flat on the ground, comfortably reach the pedals from the seat, and comfortably reach the handlebars when sitting.

It’s also important to note that unlike adult bikes that are measured via the frame, kids bikes are measured by wheel size, and so the size is not indicative of the frame size or seat height of the bike. As well as looking at the bikes tire size, be aware of the minimum and maximum seat height to make sure the child can fit the bike.

The material used for kids bikes can vary according to price and will affect the durability, weight and look of the bike. Most commonly kids bikes will be made from either steel or aluminium.

Steel bikes are the most cost effective option and highly durable with the ability to withstand plenty of punishment that will no doubt come its way. The downside of steel bikes is they’re significantly heavier than aluminium and can rust if left out or ridden in all weather conditions.

Aluminium bikes are light, highly durable and near rust-proof, but come at an additional cost to steel.

Kids bikes will typically begin with a single gear to not over complicate the cycling experience but as the child gets more experienced and skilled, more gears are available.

To begin with, a single speed gear normally features an easy pedaling ratio, so children have no problems turning the pedals over. If there is a still a single speed gear present as the size of the bike increases, this ratio is likely to be larger, making it harder to pedal initially, but capable of faster overall speeds.

Kids bikes are typically 25-40% of the child’s weight but that figure will be highly variable depending upon the bike you choose, the child’s weight to height ratio and age. If possible try to limit the weight of the bike to under 50% of the child’s weight. To put that in perspective, an adult’s mountain bike typically weighs between 15-20% of a 165lb rider.

There are positives and negatives when it comes to using training wheels or stabilizers. On the plus side, they provide stability, inspire confidence and can be important in the early stages of riding if children lack the strength to turn the pedals and the weight of the bike is too much. And for children that have never used a balance bike or scooter, going straight onto a pedal bike with no support is a bridge too far.

On the negative side, it’s said using training wheels teaches children bad habits and can make the progression to riding without support more difficult. They can also influence braking effectiveness when turning as the weight is on the training wheel and not on the rear wheel.

If you do use training wheels, start them level with the ground and gradually raise them as your child becomes more confident, to the point that they can almost do without them. When the child is confident enough, they can then be removed.

Prices for a kids bike will vary greatly depending on the size, material and type but below are a few things to consider when deciding on a budget, regardless of the kids bike you’re purchasing.

• Kids will grow out of their bikes in a short period of time so it’s worthwhile thinking a step ahead and deciding whether this bike will get handed down or be sold on. In either case, keep it in good condition and don’t throw away training wheels, spares, reflectors, instructions or other items that come with the initial purchase. It might also help to choose neutral colors so it can be sold to girls or boys.
• Should you buy from a specialty bike store or a department store? Bike stores have expected knowledge, will assemble the bike safely and be a point of contact if something is not right. Department stores lack the specific knowledge of bikes so you’ll likely have to assemble the bike yourself and have limited resources available to you, should something go wrong. Typically speaking, the bikes sold at bike stores are built to higher quality standards than those you find at department stores, like most things, you do get what you pay for.
• We’ve listed many possible accessories above but not all of them come with the bike as standard. As such, you should always check what comes with the bike and any possible accessories you’ll need to purchase. Basic items like reflectors, bells and brakes will come with the bike, but training wheels, kickstands and baskets may not.

** Much of the info in this post was compiled by Bikeexchange.com

The post Bike Purchase Series – Kids Bikes – from Your Friendly Mobile Bike Shop first appeared on Bike Werks.

When setting your budget for your bike purchase, the bike is only part of the equation.  There’s usually additional items you’ll want to complete your newfound cyclist identity. There are accessories which attach to your bike, accessories for your body, and a few other stand-alone items to consider.

Accessories Attached to Your Bike

• Most bikes have mounts for water bottle cages, but no cage comes with the bike.  Most likely you’ll want one or two of those plus a bottle or two. 
• Most bikes don’t come with kickstands, and not all bikes are suited for them, but they are convenient to have.  You’re less likely to scratch your bike, and it’s way more convenient than leaving your bike in a heap on the ground.  One negative is that they do add weight. 
• Some bikes don’t come with pedals – usually mid to high end road and mountain bikes.  There’s a decision to be made as you get further into cycling, that being if you want to move from flat pedals or toe clips, up to clipless pedals.  When you wear cycling shoes that attach to the pedals, 

you’re going clipless. Click here to read about the many types of pedals. There are many brands of clipless pedals on the market, and each have a unique attachment mechanism.  People become fond on their favorite type, so manufacturers find it best not to include pedals at all.

• New bikes come with reflectors so you can be seen from the front, back and sides and they are somewhat effective.  One way to make sure that you’re seen is to install lights on the front and rear. There are less expensive lights designed with the purpose of being seen and I encourage their use both day and night.  Then there’s more expensive headlights that are for lighting up the road or path at night. I personally use USB rechargeable lights with a 500 lumen headlight and 300 lumen flashing red taillight. I’m covered day or night.
• If you ride in situations where you approach pedestrians or other cyclists from the rear, a bell is a nice thing to have.  I feel that it’s a subtle but effective way to announce your presence, with the alternative of shouting “on your left”, which seems to startle people.
• Current speed, average speed and top speed on your ride are good things to know.  Mileage, heart rate, cadence and GPS come in handy as well. Bike computers can provide all of that and more.  Note that you can also use your phone for a lot of those functions as well. Bike Werks carries handlebar phone mounts for your convenience.  Look for a future blog post on popular cycling apps.
• A rear-view mirror is a good idea especially if you ride on the road, but my experience is that most people get them and don’t use them.  Mounted on the handlebar, they get knocked out of adjustment and just get in the way. In addition to handlebar mount, there are mirrors designed to mount to your helmet.  If having one makes you comfortable and you’ll use it – by all means, get one.

• If you ride in wet weather, fenders are a welcome accessory.  When riding on wet surfaces, tires produce a spray which fenders will contain.  Though mostly found on hybrids, there are versions for road bikes (usually touring road bikes) and unique, less traditional versions sometimes found on mountain bikes.  Be aware that not all fenders are compatible with all bikes.
• Rear bike racks are handy to have.  Side saddle bags called “Panniers” attach to racks and are handy for commuting, trips to the grocery store or packing a picnic lunch.  There are also bags which sit on top of the rack to maximize your packing space. Some child seats also mount to rear racks.

• If you ride to destinations where you’ll be leaving your bike unattended, then a lock is mandatory.  There are locks that mount to the bike frame, but I’m personally not a fan of them. I feel it’s better to carry your lock in a backpack or pannier.  Whether a chain, cable or U-lock, the bike lock is a deterrent causing the potential thief to move on to an easier target.
• Frame pumps are good to have when you have inner tubes with Shrader valves (valves like those on your car).  They mount with the water bottle cage and tuck out of the way nicely. Most of these pumps will also inflate tubes with Presta valves (thin metal valve with screw tip), but when your bike has those a more compact and effective inflation device is a CO2 cartridge and regulator which fits in your seat pack which leads to the final accessory listed here
• Seat packs tuck under your saddle and depending on what you carry, can save you a long walk home.  Click here to learn all about seat packs and what should be inside of them so you’re prepared if you get a puncture.

Accessories for your body

• First thing you’re going to need is a helmet.  When you have an accident on a bicycle, there’s usually no time to react.  I’ve personally been spared severe head injuries by wearing a bicycle helmet.  Helmets these days fit comfortably, are rather light, have plenty of ventilation and come in many styles.
• Next thing on the list is gloves.  There are summer fingerless gloves, winter gloves and several in between.  They aid in gripping the handlebars, reduce vibration and usually have a terry cloth patch sewn on for wiping your brow.  More importantly though, they’re a safety measure in the event of an accent. Nothing worse than road rash on your palms. Your hands are one of the three touch points to your bike
• Another touch point to your bicycle is your feet.  Bike shoes have stiffer soles and have the mounts for pedal cleats.  (click here to learn more about pedals that interface with cleats). With road specific shoes, the soles are solid and not flexible.  This is ideal when you’re in the pedals, but road shoes are awkward to walk around in. Mountain shoes, on the other hand, have recessed cleat mounts.  The mounted cleats are almost unnoticeable when walking in them. This is ideal when you have to dismount your bike in the woods to “hike-a-bike”. It’s also nice when you’re riding urban casual and park your bike to walk around.

• The final touch point is your rear end.  Cycling shorts are one accessory that your body will thank you for.  Sewn into the saddle contact area is what’s called a chamois (shammy).   The chamois has evolved from a flat piece of foam to an anatomical wicking pad made of different density foams and pressure channels.  For the ultimate comfort, you can “one-up” your game by smearing some Chamois butter on your bottom. Most associate bike shorts with the traditional skin-tight versions, however  the mountain bike culture has brought something for those a bit more modest and shy – the baggy short combined with a chamois liner.  Liners are also sold separately, so you can add padding to your favorite shorts or pants.
• Nowadays, there’s more choices when it comes to cycling specific clothing than ever.  Traditionally, shorts, pants, jerseys and jackets are fitted for aerodynamics and eliminating the fluttering excess material.  Now you have the option of more casual, baggier, less fitted clothing still adapting to cycling. Jerseys have longer tails to adapt to the bent over position of your body when cycling.  Materials are light, wicking fabric for keeping cool in summer, and for layering in winter.  
• For road bikers and mountain bikers alike, it’s a good idea to wear glasses whether it’s sunny or not.  For riding off road, there’s the obvious need for eye protection. Clear or yellow lenses can maintain visibility while averting branches, dust and mud spray.  Eye protection on the road makes sense as well, with wind in your face and exposure to the sun.
• Hydration packs are quite popular among mountain bikers, but I’ve seen casual riders and road riders making use of them as well.  You can keep your eyes on the road or trail while hydrating. The liquid filled backpacks are also great for storage.

Stand Alone Accessories

• Sometimes you have to travel to get to the best cycling roads or trails.  There are several options when it comes to purchasing an automotive bike rack.  Several rack specialty companies offer solutions for nearly every kind of car.
• Your bikes tires are going to lose air – there’s no way around it.  Expect to inflate your tires to proper pressure on a regular basis. Most floor pumps these days will work with both kinds of bike valves – presta and shrader.  (There’s a third type of valve called a Dunlop valve, but they’re found mostly overseas). Make sure get a quality pump with a pressure gauge. 
• Always have a bottle of bicycle specific lube on hand.  Never use motor oil or WD40 on your bike. They attract dirt and gum up your drivetrain affecting shifting performance and causing friction reducing efficiency.  Click here to learn more about lube and how often to apply.

The post New Bike Series – Accessories first appeared on Bike Werks.

Bike Werks Mobile Bike Shop understands that bikes are fascinating things.  They’re all around us, we’re used to seeing them and we overlook the complexity of these efficient machines.   Name another device where a person climbs aboard and becomes the engine, the transmission, the guidance system and the braking system.  Contact points include the pedals, the saddle and the

handlebars.  As you turn the pedals, your feet, ankles, knees and hips all go into motion. Having the right distance between the saddle and the pedals is important for comfort and efficiency.  Having the right distance between the saddle and handlebars is as equally important.  To set the right vertical distance, the seatpost can be adjusted up and down, and the saddle adjusted fore and aft.  Stick with me – to understand the sizing of a bike, you need to know a couple of things.

The bearing on which the pedal arms spin is called the bottom bracket.  The uppermost horizontal bar spanning from the saddle to the handlebars is called the top tube.  Most bikes are sized according to the distance between the bottom bracket and the top tube, be it in inches, centimeters, or a simple small, medium and large. You might think, “hey, if the seat post can be adjusted up and down, getting the right size bike isn’t really that important after all”… and you’d be wrong.  You have to consider a second measurement – that being the distance between the saddle and the handlebars or the reach.  A medium frame will have a shorter reach to the bars than a large frame.  Now I’m going to add yet another ingredient to the mix.  The handlebars are attached to the bike with what’s called a stem.  Similar to the seatpost, the handlebars can be adjusted fore and aft and up and down by swapping out the stem, or changing the handlebars all together.

“So how do I find my size?”, you may ask.  If you’re not getting guidance from a bike shop (or even if you are), I suggest that you refer to the size charts that each manufacturer puts out for their bikes based on your height and inseam.  In addition, there’s no shortage of third party sizing charts like the one below.  If you’re an in between size, nothing beats a test ride to find your preference.

Most bike shops offer fitting services usually geared for road bike purchases. There’s usually different rates for if you’re buying your bike there vs bringing in your existing or one you bought somewhere else.  For a road bike, I highly recommend a fitting.  For hybrids and mountain bikes, my personal opinion is that you can get by without one as long as you picked out the right type and size.  You can make adjustments on your own in the first few rides.  Most seat-posts have quick-release clamps so you can adjust the saddle up and down without tools, making it easier to find that sweet spot.  It’s a little more involved adjusting the saddle fore and aft and the handlebar reach.  Feel free to reach out to Bike Werks Mobile Bike Shop if you’re having trouble getting comfortable.

One last note.  Awhile back, bike manufacturers started offering women’s specific bikes.  Bikes came with different saddles, narrower handlebars, shorter cranks, closer brake lever reach and a specific frame geometry for the average female frame.  In addition, many have lower stand-over heights when straddling the bike.  Womens specific bikes are designed for your average woman with longer legs and the proportionally stronger lower body.Search for:

The post New Bike Series – All About Getting the Right Sized Bike first appeared on Bike Werks.

1. Hybrid

Websters definition of a hybrid is , “having or produced by a combination of two or more distinct elements”.  In the case of a hybrid bicycle, those two elements are a mountain bike and a road bike.  The prominent road elements are: thinner tires, light weight, 700c wheels, and the prominent mountain elements are:  Flat bars, riding position, frame geometry and large gear range. The hybrid is suited for both asphalt and dirt or gravel paths.

• Rigid hybrid – fast, responsive, more suited for road 
• Sport hybrid – front suspension fork & seat-post shock, Suited for road and offers more comfort for path or trail
• Comfort bike – upright, riser handlebars, soft saddle, suited for cruising rather than speed

2. Mountain

Though you can ride a mountain bike on the road, it’s true purpose is riding off road. Mountain bikes first appeared in bike shops in the early 80’s, and since then have evolved dramatically.  In the mid to late 80’s, optional front suspension forks complemented the initial hard tail bikes. Soon to follow, various forms of rear suspension hit the scene. Mountain bikes have a more aggressive riding

 position than hybrids.  They have fatter tires and the riding position comparatively puts more weight on the shoulders and wrists. They have a wide range of gears for covering all types of terrain and the frames have lots of room for spinning muddy tires.  Mountain bikes were the first type of bikes with disc brakes.  Now disc brakes can be found on hybrid, road and mountain.  I’ll get more into disc brakes in the “Brands” part of the blog post.

• Rigid – no suspension front or rear.  Bike Werks has converted many old rigid mountain bikes to be more like hybrids by raising the bars and shortening the reach putting the body in a more upright position
• Hard Tail  front suspension only
  • Race (light weight, less fork travel (80-100 mm), thinner off- road tires)
  • Trail (rugged, more fork travel (120-140 mm), wider tires, utilitarian)
  • Fat bike (4” wide tires, rugged, lower gearing, utilitarian)
• Full suspension
  • Race (lightweight, less F&R suspension travel (80-100 mm), thinner mountain tires, less aggressive tire tread)
  • Enduro/Trail aggressive tire tread, lots of susp travel (120-160), long wheel base, utilitarian
  • Downhill  (laid back geometry, long wheel base, even more suspension travel F&R (180-200 mm – that’s over 7”!), wide tires with aggressive tire tread, super heavy duty – not suited for road or cross country

3. Road Bike

Like the other categories, road bikes have evolved over the years.  With an emphasis on speed and covering long distances, they’re lighter weight, and fragile yet efficient.  Traditionally having thinner tires (23 mm or thinner) over the years, road tires have gotten wider (28mm or more) and air pressure has come down (from 130 lbs to 100 lbs or less).  The industry and enthusiasts find that the benefits of more rubber on the road, and deeper air cushion between the rim and the road outweigh the minor increase in wind resistance. The road category is responsible for the many frame materials available for whatever bike you choose.  Steel, Aluminum, Carbon Fiber and Titanium frames all have their unique attributes in the form of price, weight and feel. Realize that a road bike puts the rider in a more aero position. One of the key differences in the subsets of road bikes is the position of the rider. Are you racing or are you riding as part of an exercise routine?  Are you planning to ride hours at a time? Are you in a hilly area with lots of climbing?

• Sport/Endurance  – more upright aero position, suited for long days in the saddle, emphasis on comfort and efficiency
• Aero/Race – aerodynamic frame construction, aggressive aero position, less is more (the lighter the bike, the more it costs), emphasis on speed
• Touring – wider range of gears, upright position, more emphasis on strong construction rather than weight, wider tires, mounts for fenders and saddle bag racks, emphasis on cruising and climbing
• Triathlon bike – most aggressive aero position equipped with aero bars lowering and stretching out the rider, gearing often changed by rider depending on terrain, lightweight, aerodynamic frame and wheels, built for speed at the expense of comfort
• Flat bar – light, nimble and fast like a traditional road bike, upright riding position like a hybrid, for road or asphalt paths, not dirt or gravel paths
• Gravel bike/Cyclocross  – actually two categories, but very similar, attributes of a drop bar road bike, wide (35-40mm) tires with tread that grips, room within the frame and fork for mud coated tires, for trails, cross country and gravel, yet can function pretty well as a road bike when swapping out tires. 

Other categories:  Kids Bikes, balance bikes, single speeds, beach cruisers, tandems, recumbants, BMX, Adult tricycles and more.

The post New Bike Series – Bicycle Categories – What’s Best Type of Bike for You? first appeared on Bike Werks.

There are a lot of choices when buying a new bike.  You may be buying a bike to complement your exercise routine, to commute, to race, to ride with your kids, or many other reasons.  Getting the right bike can be the difference between regularly enjoying those activities and having your bike collect dust in the garage.  Making the right decisions when buying a bike can enhance the riding experience and play a part in the frequency it’s ridden.  Bike Werks Mobile Bike Shop is interested in making sure that you get the right bike.  The following information will put you on the right path.  I’ve broken down the process to five topics:  Type, Size, Where to Buy, Brand and Accessories.  Click on links in each topic below for more detailed information.  Now, let’s get started:

Type of Bike

What kind of riding do you picture yourself doing?  Riding a mountain bike in the woods?  a Road Bike in the countryside?  Riding a hybrid around town?  Those are the most common categories, and to keep things simple, I’ll stick to Mountain, Road and Hybrid.  There are subsets of those categories and multi-use bikes as well.  Click here to learn about each one.

Size of Bike

People come in many different sizes as do bicycles.  Kids bikes are categorized by wheel size including 12-1/2, 16, 18, 20 & 24 inch. and in a future post, I’ll cover best buying methods for those bikes.  For the purpose of this article, I’ll stick with adult bicycles.  Adult wheel sizes stay pretty consistent among bike types (with the exception of the mountain category which comes in 26″, 27.5″ and 29″).  In nearly all cases, with the adult bike, it’s the frame dimensions that separates one size bike from another, but there’s more to it.  Just for kicks, I researched measurements used when buying a pair of pants.  According to myblueprint.com, there are 10 measurements when buying a pair of pants:  waist, high hip, full hip, upper thigh, thigh, calf, ankle, length, crotch length and crotch depth.  For bicycles,  things like standover height, leg extension and reach are important, but there’s more.  Click Here to learn more.

Brand of Bike

There are Bike Companies that pour millions into research and development, and you’ll find their bikes scattered throughout the Tour de France peloton.  Then there are bike companies who focus thier efforts on using budget materials and parts to sell as many bikes as cheaply as possible.  Most of us are looking for something in between.  But the name on the side of the frame doesn’t always define the bike.  Click here to find out more

Where to Buy

It’s possible to buy the perfect bike for your needs in one of many methods, depending on what you’re looking for.  Click here to learn more about the following methods:  Local Bike Shop, Sporting Goods Chain, Big Box Store, Online and Direct from Manufacturer.

Accessories

Buying the bike is just the beginning.  There’s a host of accessories which will enhance your riding experience.  click here to learn more.

The post Five Things to Consider When Buying a New Bicycle first appeared on Bike Werks.

• Recover From Injury
  • A recent study found that elderly patients with knee pain and osteoarthritis actually improved their condition when cycling was introduced to their routines, proving that as we get older, taking time to exercise (even spinning only a few minutes a day) can be very beneficial.  Cycling is ideal for recovery because it’s non-weight bearing, low impact, ideal for remaining in a stable position, is a recurring movement which nurtures joint cartilage, utilizes a range of motion that’s required for most daily living activities, applies controlled movement, allows you to vary resistance and is an effective cardiovascular work out.

• Improve Your Heart
  • Cycling is great for your heart, and not only because you love to do it.  A study in Medicine & Science in Sports & Exercise spent 5 years following the activity of 1.500 subjects.  Those who were active on a daily basis were 31% less likely to develop high blood pressure.  On a personal note, I had a physical not too long ago, and because of a low resting pulse, my doctor felt it necessary for me to see a cardiologist.  My doctors concerns were dismissed after an echo-cardiogram revealed no irregularities.  My blood pressure was normal, and the cardiologist attributed my healthy heart to cycling.

• Feel Sexier
  • This category has nothing to do with how you feel in Spandex, but if you go beyond recreational cyclist and start wearing the stuff, both you and those around you will be glad that you have a fit body from all the cycling you’re doing.  It’s more about how cyclists are perceived.  A survey of 600 men and women commissioned by the British Heart Foundation found that cyclists were perceived as 13% more intelligent and cooler than other people, and a whopping 23% said that a cyclist would be their preferred blind-date athlete.

• Lose Fat
  • It really shouldn’t come as a surprise that weight loss is one of the big benefits of regular cycling, but it bears repeating.  The media is often quick to promote the idea that dieting is the only way to shed fat, but science is proving otherwise.  A recent study showed that older diabetic women could only drop visceral fat if exercise, along with diet was introduced into their routine.  The same was proved for younger women.  My personal experience is that when I’m riding regularly, my body craves fuel, and as long as I keep it healthy, I indulge in large meals and my weight remains constant.

• Help Prevent Cancer
  • Maintaining  a healthy weight, regular exercise and a conscientious diet (ie:  lots of leafy vegetables, lean proteins and healthy grains) helps lower your risk of cancer.  A study published in the Journal of the American Medical Association recently looked at nearly 14,000 men and concluded that those with a higher fitness level as they approached middle age were at a lower risk for lung and colorectal cancer.

Change Your Outlook on Exercising

• The way I look at it, health and fitness simply happen when you’re having fun on your bike.  Climbing aboard an eliptical, stair stepper, rower or treadmill are other ways of getting your exercise (even exercise bikes, or spinning bikes).  The difference to me is that the machines are one dimensional – they’re for working out.   You feel better when you finish, but the process isn’t all that much fun.  When I go for a ride, I’m caught up in the activity.  There’s fresh air, there’s scenery, there’s climbing and descending, shifting and braking, there’s wind in my face…….and as a bonus, I’m getting a work-out.

The post 7 Ways in Which Cycling Will Make You Healthier first appeared on Bike Werks.

Assessment

Upon arriving at your home, we set up a bike stand, position your bike and perform a comprehensive inspection.  The bike owner is encouraged to watch while we systematically check things out. We work our way from the front wheel to the rear wheel. 

How’s the tread on the front tires, is it dry rotted, any rips or tears, how’s the tire pressure, is the front wheel out of true, are the bearings properly set.  That’s just the beginning.  If the bike has a front rim brake, is the brake lever at the best angle, is the lever adjustment knob all the way in, is the cable rusted or frayed, Is the cable housing in good shape, is the brake noodle in good shape, are the brake pads aligned properly, are they toed in, is there still life left in the pads, do the brake arms pull evenly, do they pivot freely, is there adequate spring tension, do they squeal when applied…….. you get the idea.

That’s 18 criteria for the front wheel and brake alone!  You can rest assured that our assessment is just as detailed for the rest of the bike.  We do this for every bike – even if asked to do only a derailleur adjustment.  We look at it this way – We don’t want to put our hands on a bike for one reason and have the bike fail its owner for something we failed to point out.

Price Quote

The individual issues are explained, and demonstrated (if you wish). Bike Werks offers pricing for each individual repair.  If there are parts needed (ie: brake pads, chain, saddle, grips, etc…..), they are quoted as well.  In many cases, a complete tune-up, addressing all mechanisms of your bike, is the best way to go.  All prices are given up front, and no work is performed until the fee is agreed upon.

Tune Up

Our gold tune-up costs $225 and includes the following:  Remove and true front and rear wheel.  Clean and polish front and rear wheel.  Inflate tires to proper pressure.  Remove drive train, including chain, crankset, front and rear derailleurs and cassette and clean and degrease with solvent in parts washer.  While drive train components are off frame, clean and wax frame.  Reinstall all parts and wheels.  Lubricate derailleur pivot points.  Lubricate derailleur cables.  Adjust front and rear brakes.  Adjust front and rear derailleurs.  Lube chain.  Test ride bike.  The tune-up takes a little over an hour, and your bike is performing at it’s full potential.

Our silver tune-up costs $150 with the difference being that the drive train remains on the bike.

Extras

We aim to improve the cycling experience and after meticulously cleaning, waxing and adjusting, we simply take a overall look and address the bike as if it were ours.  Is the saddle level, is  it positioned correctly fore and aft.  Is the seat height correct for its rider?  Are the grips slipping?  Many these days are anatomical – are they positioned correctly?  Are the handlebars at the right angle?  Are there loose reflectors.  Is there a loose kickstand?  Does it need a kickstand?  For road bikes, is the bar tape in good shape?  Are all accessories mounted correctly, and tightened?  When we’re through, there will be no rubbing, no squeaks and no chatter.

Guarantee

 We offer a 30 day performance guarantee.  If the next day, the bike isn’t shifting right – we come out at no charge and make it right.  Bikes can be fickle things, and what you see in the workstand isn’t always what you get on the road or trail.  That’s why we test ride.

In Summary ……

We thoroughly enjoy tuning a bike for it’s owner and take pride in what we do. 

The post Elements of an Awesome Bike Werks Tune Up first appeared on Bike Werks.

If I had a nickel for every time I was asked this question, I’d  be a rich man.  It’s a simple question with no simple answer.  Every hundred miles?  Every other time I ride?  Twice a year?  Every month?  Once a week?………. It depends.  Let’s take a closer look at the bike chain — the key component for transferring power from your body to the rear wheel.

Chain lube?, How come?

Every time you push the pedals on your bike, you’re creating power in the crankset.  Power is transferred through 1) the geared rings on the crankset, 2) a chain, and 3) toothed cassette cogs on the rear wheel.The chain wraps around the derailleur pulleys as well.

  The whole system allows power to be transferred from the rider to the rear wheel.  Along the way, any friction in that system will cause some of that power to be lost.  Moving the individual chain links, spinning the derailleur pulleys and contact between the chain and cogs are all sources of friction which can rob you of power.  There are over 100 links in a typical bike chain – that’s 100 ways to impede power transfer.  Lube is key to making sure that friction is kept to a minimun – as a bonus, it also prolongs the life of your chain.

Two kinds of bike chain lube – Dry and Wet

• Dry Lube was first developed for mountain bikers where a chain can pick up dirt, but is widely used for all kinds of bike chains these days.  The best dry lubes consist of a wax-like substance suspended in a solvent.  After applying to the chain, when the solvent dries, it leaves a light waxy film behind.  Since it takes a few hours for the solvent to dry, it’s best to clean and lube the chain after a ride to prepare for the next one.

• Wet Lube is a synthetic oil for use in wet conditions when rust is a main concern.  It stays wet on the chain and prevents moisture from penetrating into your chain’s plates and rollers.  Since wet lube tends to collect a lot of dirt and debris as you ride, it’s important to use only when conditions warrant, and clean your chain often when using it.

Which one should I use?

If you are adamant about cleaning your bike regularly and often ride in inclement weather, then wet lube is the right choice for you.  For the rest of us (the majority), who ride when the weather is nice, dry lube is the preferred option.  Expect to pay around $10 for a 4 or 6 oz bottle of bike specific chain lube which will last a very long time if applied correctly.

Okay, okay, I got it, so answer the question – how often?

Part of what lube does is fill in the cracks and crevices where dirt and grime can collect.  Lube your chain when the cracks and crevices are vacant of lube.  Ride 5 miles a week in good weather and you’re good for months.  Average 30 miles a week in good weather and you should be lubing about every 2 weeks.  Average 50 miles a ride in good weather, and it’s every ride.  Ride one time in wet weather for 20 minutes, and re-lube right away.

What about WD-40?

The “WD” in WD-40 stands for “water displacement” and the “40” stands for the 40 tries it took engineers to develop it.  It’s original intent was to protect the outer skin of a missile from rust and corrosion back in the 50’s.  There’s a reason that bike mechanics cringe whenever someone says that they use the stuff on their chain.  First of all, it’s more of a degreaser, than a lubricant — it’s like using conditioner to wash your hair.  Secondly – show me a bike sprayed with WD-40, and I’ll show you a mess.  It gets on everything, and collects dirt and grime like crazy.  If you must use WD-40, don’t use what you’re used to seeing – use their reformulated bike specific lube, and be careful where you spray – lube on brake surfaces isn’t a good idea.

Note

Click on any of the little lube bottles and you’ll be linked directly to Amazon where you can make a purchase, and I make a little commission.  Thanks for your support!  Carl.

The post “How often should I lube my chain?” first appeared on Bike Werks.