Assessment

Upon arriving at your home, we set up a bike stand, position your bike and perform a comprehensive inspection.  The bike owner is encouraged to watch while we systematically check things out. We work our way from the front wheel to the rear wheel. 

How’s the tread on the front tires, is it dry rotted, any rips or tears, how’s the tire pressure, is the front wheel out of true, are the bearings properly set.  That’s just the beginning.  If the bike has a front rim brake, is the brake lever at the best angle, is the lever adjustment knob all the way in, is the cable rusted or frayed, Is the cable housing in good shape, is the brake noodle in good shape, are the brake pads aligned properly, are they toed in, is there still life left in the pads, do the brake arms pull evenly, do they pivot freely, is there adequate spring tension, do they squeal when applied…….. you get the idea.

That’s 18 criteria for the front wheel and brake alone!  You can rest assured that our assessment is just as detailed for the rest of the bike.  We do this for every bike – even if asked to do only a derailleur adjustment.  We look at it this way – We don’t want to put our hands on a bike for one reason and have the bike fail its owner for something we failed to point out.

Price Quote

The individual issues are explained, and demonstrated (if you wish). Bike Werks offers pricing for each individual repair.  If there are parts needed (ie: brake pads, chain, saddle, grips, etc…..), they are quoted as well.  In many cases, a complete tune-up, addressing all mechanisms of your bike, is the best way to go.  All prices are given up front, and no work is performed until the fee is agreed upon.

Tune Up

Our gold tune-up costs $225 and includes the following:  Remove and true front and rear wheel.  Clean and polish front and rear wheel.  Inflate tires to proper pressure.  Remove drive train, including chain, crankset, front and rear derailleurs and cassette and clean and degrease with solvent in parts washer.  While drive train components are off frame, clean and wax frame.  Reinstall all parts and wheels.  Lubricate derailleur pivot points.  Lubricate derailleur cables.  Adjust front and rear brakes.  Adjust front and rear derailleurs.  Lube chain.  Test ride bike.  The tune-up takes a little over an hour, and your bike is performing at it’s full potential.

Our silver tune-up costs $150 with the difference being that the drive train remains on the bike.

Extras

We aim to improve the cycling experience and after meticulously cleaning, waxing and adjusting, we simply take a overall look and address the bike as if it were ours.  Is the saddle level, is  it positioned correctly fore and aft.  Is the seat height correct for its rider?  Are the grips slipping?  Many these days are anatomical – are they positioned correctly?  Are the handlebars at the right angle?  Are there loose reflectors.  Is there a loose kickstand?  Does it need a kickstand?  For road bikes, is the bar tape in good shape?  Are all accessories mounted correctly, and tightened?  When we’re through, there will be no rubbing, no squeaks and no chatter.

Guarantee

 We offer a 30 day performance guarantee.  If the next day, the bike isn’t shifting right – we come out at no charge and make it right.  Bikes can be fickle things, and what you see in the workstand isn’t always what you get on the road or trail.  That’s why we test ride.

In Summary ……

We thoroughly enjoy tuning a bike for it’s owner and take pride in what we do. 

The post Elements of an Awesome Bike Werks Tune Up first appeared on Bike Werks.

1. Tube – make sure you have the correct tube for your bike.  There’s 3 things to be aware of when buying a tube.  First, make sure that the tube is the right diameter.  Second, make sure that the tube is for the correct tire width.  The diameter and width, along with the suggested tire pressure is located on the side of the tire.  Finally, make sure that the tube has the correct valve.  It can be one of two valves – presta or schrader.  The valve on your car is a shrader valve.  Presta valves are skinnier metal valves with a tip which is normally screwed closed, except for when going to inflate the tube.
2. Tire Levers – The tire lever come in a set of 2 or 3, and are used to pry the tire off of the rim.  One end does the prying, and the other usually has a notch for hooking the lever to the spoke so your hands are free to use the other levers to finish the job.
3. Mini pump or CO2 inflator – Once the new tube is inserted and the tire is back on the rim, it’s time to inflate the tire.  A CO2 cartridge has enough compressed air in it to adequately inflate the tire.  A little regulator valve is necessary to do the job so make sure that you have one of those too.  The cartridge and regulator are small, light and fit nicely into your seatpack.  It’s worth your while to practice with one first because once the air escapes the cartridge, that’s it.  You may find that you’re more comfortable having a pump and that’s okay.  Many are designed to attached to the bike frame and out of the way.

1. Multi-tool – There are dozens of multi-tools to choose from.  Though not as good as your standard mechanic’s tools, they’re great for the occasional trailside adjustment.  Don’t worry if you’re unsure how to adjust or fix something on the road.  Cyclists are a friendly lot, and if they see you with the tool in one hand, and scratching your head with the other – they’ll typically stop and help.

So there you have it.  The four things I listed are a must, but there are other things you should consider as well.  I like to carry electrical tape, especially when I’m riding off road.  You never know when it may come in handy.  It’s also a good idea to carry an I.D. with contact #’s if you’re riding alone.  I also carry a few bucks for the occasional convenience store stop, or in the worst case if your legs don’t have it that day – an Uber ride home!

The post What’s in your seatpack? first appeared on Bike Werks.